Everest Update 11 April: Scott Parazynski: God’s Eye View of the Top of the World
Image: Scott and Danru on Pumor RI with Everest Behind Them
Pumor Ri Camp I: God’s Eye View of the Top of the World
Waking up here is so much easier when the warmth of the sun hits your tent, so at 7:40 this morning I rustled out of my sleeping bag almost in perfect synchronization with several my neighbors. A few had gotten up much earlier to take another swing at the Icefall, but I think I’ve had enough until the route to Camp I is fully installed (rumor from the Icefall MD’s is that they’ll be through to Camp I in another work day or two, and a similar duration to push all the way up to Camp II).
Image: Scott and Danru on Pumor RI with Everest Behind Them
Pumor Ri Camp I: God’s Eye View of the Top of the World
Waking up here is so much easier when the warmth of the sun hits your tent, so at 7:40 this morning I rustled out of my sleeping bag almost in perfect synchronization with several my neighbors. A few had gotten up much earlier to take another swing at the Icefall, but I think I’ve had enough until the route to Camp I is fully installed (rumor from the Icefall MD’s is that they’ll be through to Camp I in another work day or two, and a similar duration to push all the way up to Camp II).
Aspiring to altitude, but not the added risk of the Icefall today, a small group of us (Danuru, Kamen, Petia, Pasang Rinji, Dawa and Raejean) headed up the flanks of Pumor Ri, down the Khumbu valley about 30 minutes or so. Rarely is the summit climbed these days due to enormous hanging glaciers and avalanche risk up high. But it is often visited by Everest climbers owing to its steep gradient and amazing views of all the major peaks in the region — and by definition the most major peaks in the world…
After leaving the EBC trail we were in ultra-4WD mode, with steep switchbacks on scree and broken talus. Portions of our quick ascent to 19,100 feet were on tundra, with an occasional edelweiss (mountain flower) sighting. While deep snow had covered this area the past several days, we were mostly able to stick to rock — but a nice pair of trekking crampons would’ve come in handy near the top.
From Pumor Ri’s Camp I, we were able to look down upon Everest Base Camp, look straight across to the Khumbu Icefall and the general vicinity of our future Everest Camp I, and up to many other classic landmarks: the Western Cwm, the Lhotse Face, our future Camps III and IV (Everest’s South Col), the Yellow Band, the Geneva Spur, the Balcony, the south and true summits of Everest itself…
For someone like me who’s read practically every book about Everest and the Himalayas ever written, it was like viewing the Holy Grail… [Surprisingly, I could easily pick out the traverse from Camp III to the Yellow Band — steps kicked into the hard ice from last season, and basically the location where I had to turn around last year — all from perhaps 5 miles away]
Thanking the Guys who really make it happen
The true highlight of my day, however, was spending tea time with the climbing Sherpas in their dining tent this afternoon. Not to slight the phenomenal logistic support and leadership of the IMG management in any way — I’d highly recommend climbing with IMG anywhere in the world — I knew from last year’s experience here that the guys who really make it happen are the Sherpas. Strong beyond belief at altitude, always quick with a smile and a willingness to help, I consider myself very fortunate to call some of them good friends.
With that in mind, I brought pins from my last Shuttle flight for each of them, which they gratefully received and put on their ball caps. I also brought a couple of my favorite Mount Everest-from-space photos, which I took during my first Shuttle flight, STS-66, back in 1994. [I emailed Keith a few days ago requesting copies, and we hope to give each and every one a personal copy; this had been on my to-do list before departure from home] [Keith: They are packed and ready to go] They studied the photos in awe, and peppered me with questions as well as the spicy soup they offered me. We shared a bunch of laughs, with topics ranging from rocket propulsion, g-forces, spacewalks and (naturally) how astronauts go to the bathroom in space.
One of the young Sherpas suggested that once Danuru takes me to the summit of Everest, I should take him to space with me. Another Sherpa quickly christened Danuru “Neil Armstrong,” which I really like! I’ve been away from home for 3 weeks as of today, with limited insight into the rest of the world, and so I have no idea if we have a new NASA Administrator or not. Regardless, I plan to petition the new Boss for a rocket ride for Sherpa Neil once I get home! I can tell he’d make a really fine spacewalker…
Image: Roof of the World
Image: Everest Base Camp and the Khumbu Icefall as seen from high above
